What I ate: Vegan in Naoshima & Teshima
If you’ve read my Naoshima & Teshima Trip Report, you’re probably booking your ticket there as we speak! But if you’re vegan or vegetarian, you might be wondering: on such small islands, is there anything for me to eat? Naoshima and Teshima have populations of 3000 and 900 people respectively, so it’s a valid concern. I hope the rest of this post dispels some of those worries. So, without further ado, here is everything I ate on my Art Islands excursion.
Day 1: Naoshima
To get to Naoshima, we needed to make our way to Uno Port to catch a ferry. This involved a brief stop in Okayama Station, where we loaded up on snacks while waiting for our next train. One thing that quickly becomes clear when visiting Japan is how much pride each area takes in its own region’s specialties: their regional dish, regional produce, regional ramen… this list goes on. So, whenever I see a vegan-friendly regional snack, I am inclined to pick it up! And these tempura-fried nori snacks, flavoured with Setouchi lemons, absolutely screamed my name. I bought two bags and enjoyed one on the ferry to Naoshima.
These. Were. So. Good.
Once on Naoshima, we started making our way through the island’s many art exhibits. Part of the excellent Chichu museum is the Chichu Café, and I was pleased to see that they offered a vegan meal option. Since it was about lunch time anyways, I indulged.
The meal included a main consisting of veg, soy protein, and tomato sauce, a serving of veggie chips, a side salad, and gluten free bread. I also, of course, got a lemon drink made with Setouchi lemons. The meal was simple and hit the spot, but nothing to write home about. It was nice that they also considered their gluten-free guests.
If we had been able to make our way to the Honmura side of Naoshima in time, we would have definitely gone to Aisunao for lunch instead. This restaurant is known for its vegan lunch set and uses local vegetables and brown rice. Unfortunately, we knew we wouldn’t make it there before they closed at 2:30pm, but if you go to Naoshima, plan better than we did!
After lunch, we eventually found ourselves at the Hiroshi Sugimoto Gallery. Little did we know that admission to this gallery included tea and a snack! I chose the matcha and wagashi set. Wagashi is a type of traditional Japanese confection, usually made with mochi, red or white bean paste, and sugar. They are traditionally vegan, and are usually formed into beautiful shapes. Their sweetness pairs nicely with the natural bitterness of matcha. This treat, along with the combined caffeine and sugar rush, was a very welcome surprise.
Next, during our bicycle ride to Honmura, we encountered a small shop advertising their strawberry products. All the strawberry signage at Naoshima Shop Umihotaru was enough to get us to park our bikes and take a peek inside. Here, I got their fresh strawberry juice: delicious.
After wrapping up our art viewing in Honmura, we were getting pretty beat. We headed back to our guesthouse at Sparky’s House, and since our room included a full kitchen, decided to make dinner. Luckily, there was a supermarket only a 10-minute walk away. I picked up a few things at Mitsubishi Materials Naoshima Co-op: a peperoncino pasta sauce (basically a aglio olio sauce with lots of red pepper flakes, popular in Japan), some spaghetti, and frozen broccoli. What can I say, we were hungry for carbs after a day of physical activity! It wasn’t the prettiest or chef-iest dish, but it was delicious, especially paired with a refreshing lemon sour.
If you visit Naoshima and would like more suggestions on where to eat as a vegan, the following places have been reported to have vegan options:
Aisonao: As I mentioned before, this spot is only open for lunch and is known for their local vegetables and brown rice. Though they are listed on Google Maps as a vegan restaurant, I have heard that their noodle dishes may contain fish broth, so the listing may be mistaken. Either way, it is always worth double checking when you order!
Naoshima-cafe Konichiwa: This restaurant by the port of Honmura is in a converted house facing the Seto Inland Sea. They have been reported to have vegan curry, as well as a few side dishes.
Okonomiyaki Umikko: This okonomiyaki and yakisoba restaurant has been reported to understand vegan dietary restrictions, and offer a vegan okonomiyaki.
Raumen Tsumu: This ramen join is popular with locals, and has been reported to offer a vegan ramen option.
Naoshima Gelato: Right across the street from the port of Honmura, this gelato shop has been reported to offer dairy-free sorbets, and allergens are clearly marked.
Day 2: Teshima
On day 2, we had a nice early start to the day, and spent a half-day exploring Teshima. By the time we returned to the main area of Ieura, it was time for a late lunch. Somehow, this tiny island of under a thousand people has a fully-vegan, women-owned restaurant run out of a small home. Since Vegan Cafe Uka (うか食堂) is located in a residential area, it was a bit hard to find, but once I found the sign, I headed inside and was seated in their lovely dining area.
For lunch, the restaurant offers a vegetable sushi set. It comes with a side dish and a cup of miso soup, and if you opt to order a drink or a dessert, you get a ¥100 discount.
I ordered the sushi set along with a fruit syrup soda, which the kind host happily informed me was homemade from fruits grown on the island.
As I briefly alluded to in a previous blog post, this was among the best meals I had in my entire time in Japan. I do not know how they made each item taste so good. I would come back to Teshima a hundred times to visit this restaurant. Everything tasted as fresh and wholesome as could be!
If you wish to come to Vegan Cafe Uka for lunch, they are open from 11:30 to 3:00 (2:30 last order). They are also open for supper, but you will need to make a reservation ahead of time. More information can be found on their Teshima Tourism Navi page.
Unfortunately, after lunch we had to depart Teshima and move on to other adventures. But I could never forget about the amazing lunch I had on this tiny island!
If you’re looking for more vegan-friendly places to eat on Teshima, the following places have been reported to offer vegan options:
Shokudou 101 (食堂101号室): Located in the Karato area, it is probably worth checking in with them on their Facebook page to ensure they’re open and that they will have a vegan option for you.
Commune 発酵 Cafe & Bar+Stay: All at once a cafe, bar, and accommodation, Commune is a good option for a coffee break and snack.
A Cafe Teshima: Using fresh local ingredients, this cafe in a caravan is a great place to grab some snacks and drinks.